Berthaut Époisses is a pasteurized cow's milk washed-rind cheese from the village of Époisses in Burgundy, France, made under AOP rules by Fromagerie Berthaut.

The paste sits behind a sticky, orange-red rind that has been washed for weeks in brine and Marc de Bourgogne, the pomace brandy of the region. As it ripens it goes from a buttery, set interior to something you scoop with a spoon. The flavor is salty and winey, with that cellar, mushroomy pull off the rind running straight into the paste. There is a real funk to it, balanced by the rich, buttery cream underneath.

Époisses is in a class of its own. If you already love washed-rinds, this is the wheel that asks the most of you and gives the most back. Bring it to room temperature, take the top off the box, and go in with a spoon.