A traditional log-shaped goat cheese from the Loire Valley in France, hand-ladled in the old way, sometimes with a straw run through the center to hold the shape as it ages. This is a small-format version of the classic Sainte-Maure, all goat's milk, soft and chalky in the center with a thin natural rind starting to bloom on the outside.

The paste breaks softly under the knife, a little crumbly in the middle and creamier just under the rind as it ages. On the palate it leads with a bright lactic tang, citrusy and clean, the signature fresh goat-milk note, then pulls into a soft hazelnut finish with a quiet cellar earthiness from the rind. Younger pieces lean fresh and yogurty, older ones get nuttier and a touch more vegetal.

A classic Loire chèvre done right, in a small format that's perfect for a single board or a quiet evening. One of those cheeses that reminds you why goat milk done well is in a class of its own.